ITINERARIES
My interests lie in the classical world: in the art, architecture, history, religion, language and mentality of the ancient people of the Mediterranean. All of these aspects are considered in the proposed itineraries which are organized by location:
Both archaeological walks and museum visits move at an appropriate pace, taking into consideration prior knowledge and individual interests.
ROME!
CAMPUS MARTIUS:
A stroll though one of the more famous areas of the historic center, in Roman times known as "Campus Martius" or "Field of Mars", allows us to explore a unique and intriguing corner of the ancient city. Medieval, Renaissance and modern architecture envelops and often recycles the earlier Roman buildings, creating a sort of treasure hunt for lovers of antiquity. A number of monuments seen make up part of the great urban project of Augustus and include the remains of a giant sundial, his monumental tomb and an altar dedicated to Peace. The ruins of numerous other temples, a stadium and a theatre represent equally ambitious plans by equally God-like men. All of this and more can be found during a walk of this bustling, monumental city center.
LIST OF MONUMENTS: The Ara Pacis Augustae (small museum), the Column of Marcus Aurelius, the Obelisk of Montecitorio, Temple of Hadrian, Pantheon, Piazza Navona (Stadium of Domitian), Theatrum Pompeium.
Duration: 3 - 4 hrs.
Cost: € 255 - € 340 + entry tickets
*Plenty of cafés can be found along this walk which ends in a good area for lunch or aperitivo.
Duration: 3 - 4 hrs.
Cost: € 255 - € 340 + entry ticket (baths of Caracalla, closed Mondays)
*Walk ends in the Testaccio neighborhood, which is perfect for lunch or aperitivo.
PORTS & PLEBIANS:
At the foot of the Capitoline Hill lies the key to Rome's success: the port on the River Tiber. From here we begin a walk covering monuments essential to the well-being and entertainment of the ancient Romans. From the masses cheering on the horseraces at the Circus Maximus to a very famous garbage heap, this itinerary traces the steps of an ordinary Roman. An optional and highly recommended visit to the nearby Baths of Caracalla rounds out a solid, half-day walk of a lesser seen but equally incredible part of the ancient city of Rome.
LIST OF MONUMENTS: Forum Boarium, Arch of Constantine, Arcus Argentariorum, Circus Maximus, Baths of Caracalla, Aventine Hill (Santa Sabina and Orange Garden), Porta San Paolo, Pyramid of Caius Cestius, Monte Testaccio (view of).
*Images of Roman house unavailable due to photography restrictions.
Duration: 2.5 - 3 hrs.
Cost: € 210 + entry tickets
(Case Romane, € 10pp, closed Tuesdays and Thursdays; Museo della Forma Urbis, € 10pp, closed Mondays)
MONS CAELIUS:
This itinerary focuses on the Caelian Hill, one of the famous 7 hills of the ancient city, which offers a unique view of the Valley of the Colosseum as well as numerous archaeologically important sites.
Beginning with a close-up view of the exterior of the Colosseum and its connection to the rest of the valley, we then head for the hill(s), visiting one or two Paleo-Christian churches along the way. After a short walk through Villa Celimontana, a gorgeously quiet park which covers a large part of the ancient hill, we visit a Roman house, complete with frescoes, before heading to an open-air museum of various marble architectural remains. Last but far from least, we visit a small, new, spectacular museum dedicated to the Forma Urbis, the enormous marble map of Rome which dates to about 207 AD.
LIST OF MONUMENTS: Ludus Magnus, Colosseum (exterior only), Santo Stefano Rotondo, Santa Maria in Domnica, Santi Giovanni e Paolo, "Case Romane" (Roman houses), Parco Archeologico del Celio, Museo della Forma Urbis.
COLOSSEUM, FORUM & PALATINE HILL:
The Roman Forum was the center of the ancient city and the Roman World. Nestled between the famous 7 hills, it holds the ruins of innumerous buildings ranging from temples to triumphal arches, to basilica and fora dedicated to the government and management of a city that once counted a million inhabitants. And then, of course, there's the Colosseum (Flavian Amphitheater), the importance of which goes far beyond the entertainment of the Roman people. Finally, just to the south, we have the Palatine Hill, which gives us the very word for "palace," having been the area of residence first of the aristocracy of Rome, and later the location of the enormous palace of the emperors.
Duration: 3 - 4 hrs. (or more)
Cost: € 270 - € 360 + entry tickets.
Add € 80 for each additional hour.
*The Roman Forum can be admired from above during a walk on the Capitoline Hill or from within the Capitoline Museums. A unique and impressive view of the ruins of the palace on the Palatine Hill can be seen from the Circus Maximus (which is covered on the archaeological walk "Ports & Plebians").
THE CAPITOLINE MUSEUMS:
The museums on the Capitoline Hill, the location of both the Temple of Jupiter and the Arx Capitolina in antiquity, could never have been anything but incredible. Considered the world's first public museum, this collection of collections includes the bronzes donated by Sixtus IV in 1471 (Lupa Capitolina, Marcus Aurelius, lex de imperio Vespasiani), statuary from the luxurious suburban gardens of the elite, fragments of a colossal statue of Constantine, the ruins of the Temple of Jupiter and so much more. Comprised of 3 separate buildings, visitors pass underground, through the ancient archive of Rome with an incredible view of the Forum, and emerge where they entered, at the gorgeous Piazza del Campidoglio, designed by Michelangelo.
Duration: 2.5 - 3 hrs. Includes a short walk.
Cost: € 225 + entrance tickets
PALAZZO MASSIMO ALLE TERME:
This museum has it all: masterpieces of Greco-Roman statuary in both marble and bronze, depictions of Romans from all walks of life, stunning mosaics, the oldest Roman calendar in existence, entire frescoed rooms and much more. Housed in a grand palazzo close to both Termini station and the Baths of Diocletian, this remarkable collection is presented in a modern exhibition space which exalts wonderfully the ancient works. Organized both chronologically and by theme, visitors can more easily absorb the significance and history of the extraordinary art on display.
Duration: 2 - 2.5 hrs.
Cost: € 185 + entrance tickets
(Closed Mondays)
*This itinerary also includes a visit to the nearby basilica dedicated to Santa Maria degli Angeli e dei Martiri (whose original design was also by Michelangelo) which makes use of the enormous central room, the frigidarium, of the bathhouse.
THE BATHS OF DIOCLETIAN:
Monumental ruins of the largest bath house in ancient Rome offer a wonderful space to admire some incredible antiquities which include a very large epigraphic collection (inscriptions in the ancient languages), an extensive exhibit on the prehistoric peoples of Italy and numerous statues and remains of the decoration of ancient Rome. Particularly noteworthy are the ruins themselves which never fail to impress in their grandeur, as well as the architecture and spaces of the Carthusian monastery which was implanted into the bath house and designed in the Renaissance by none other than Michelangelo himself.
Duration: 2 - 2.5 hrs.
Cost: € 185 + entrance tickets
(Closed Mondays)
PALAZZO ALTEMPS:
The sober exterior of this historic palace can fool any passerby; found within it's carefully constructed, Renaissance walls is a gem of a collection of ancient art. From the harmoniously painted loggia lined with busts to the grand salon dedicated to one particularly dramatic sculpture group, a visit to this idyllic museum is bound to be pleasant. Located just steps away from the bustling Piazza Navona, highlights include the Room of the Painted Perspectives and a number of sculptures originally of the Ludovisi Collection, including the statues of Ares and the Gaul (Galatian Suicide), the so-called "Throne" and the Colossal Sarcophagus.
Duration: About 1 - 1.5 hrs. (Closed Mondays)
*Guided visits of this museum are available only as an addition to the archaeological walk "Campus Martius," which is outlined below.
OSTIA & TIVOLI
Under Construction...
PRACTICAL INFORMATION:
- Rome is very hot in the summer months (June through mid-September). Visiting cool museums and churches is highly recommended. During periods of extreme heat, I do not visit the archaeological park of the Colosseum (which includes the Roman Forum and Palatine Hill). For all walks booked on days with a forecast of 32° C (90° F) or higher, adjustments to itineraries should be expected. Temperatures always register higher in the ancient city than forecasted, and often reach dangerous levels. Please keep this information in mind when booking visits in the summer months.
- As important and fascinating as it is, I limit my visits to the archaeological park of the Colosseum throughout the year; this is primarily due to overtourism, and all that it brings, as well as my desire to show visitors something more. One might also consider the need to preserve all of the most precious, moveable finds from antiquity in museums.
- All walks and museum visits are private. The prices listed are per couple, family or small group of friends.
- All of my itineraries are best done on foot, mostly by necessity, but also as an effort to help reduce the number of cars in the city center. The museums are handicap accessible but, unfortunately, many of the city streets are not.